Guilhem Dardé is determinedly self-effacing about his part in the production of his wonderful wines. Describing himself as a paysan vigneron, a man of the soil, he believes passionately in the role of the terroir and absolute minimum intervention in the process. If you have good grapes, he says, it’s not complicated. His job, as he sees it, is to capture the character of the year, its sun, moon, winds, rain, by following the vines, being attentive and knowing exactly the right moment to harvest, so that each wine expresses this and is the best it possibly can be.